In the piazza the other day, an elderly woman was selling dried flowers and black fruits. When she came near us, she smelt faintly of sweet earth and you could see the fruits had stained her fingertips. We were eating saffron risotto and drinking Valpolicella. Everything was perfect.

Roccolo Grassi Valpolicella Superiore 2017

Great value can come with big, ripe black cherries that are super pure and seem wrapped in sage leaves and that dusty Italian tannin we call think of when they say, contento.